Mercado Central de Abastos Cadiz

Spain's Oldest Covered Market

The Mercado Central de Abastos in Cádiz holds a remarkable distinction: it's Spain's oldest covered market, serving the city continuously since 1838. That's over 186 years of fishermen, farmers, and locals passing through the same neoclassical arcades.

Built on the grounds of the former Convent of Los Descalzos, the market was designed by architect Torcuato Benjumeda in a distinctive neoclassical style. The elegant Doric columns surrounding Plaza Libertad give the space an almost Roman grandeur - a fitting setting for what has become one of Andalucía's most celebrated food destinations.

History of Mercado Central

The market's story begins in 1837, when the City Council commissioned its construction. It opened the following year with 72 stalls set beneath 4-metre Doric columns.

1838: Market opens on Plaza Libertad, replacing the Convent of Los Descalzos

1929: Major renovation by Sevillian architect Juan Talavera, who added the covered pavilions that separate fishmongers from butchers and grocers

2009: Complete modernisation - the building reopened with 173 spacious stalls and the new Rincón Gastronómico (Gastronomic Corner), while preserving its historic character

Throughout the 19th century, the market hosted theatrical performances and festivals alongside its commercial activities. Today, it remains the beating heart of old Cádiz.

What Makes Cádiz Seafood Special

Cádiz sits at the intersection of the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean, giving its market access to exceptional seafood. The fish hall here is legendary among Spanish markets.

Bluefin Tuna (Atún Rojo)

Cádiz is the centre of Spain's almadraba fishing tradition - an ancient technique for catching migrating bluefin tuna that dates back to Phoenician times. The market sells fresh cuts during the ronqueo (butchering) season from April to June.

Mojama - Ham of the Sea

Mojama is salt-cured tuna loin, often called "the ham of the sea." It's sliced paper-thin, drizzled with olive oil, and eaten as a tapa. This is Cádiz's signature product - buy some to take home.

Fresh from the Bay

The fish stalls display the daily catch from the Bay of Cádiz:

• Gambas blancas - white prawns, sweet and delicate
• Ortiguillas - sea anemones, a local delicacy
• Chocos - cuttlefish, often fried or in rice dishes
• Boquerones - fresh anchovies
• Navajas - razor clams
• Coquinas - wedge clams

Best Stalls and What to Buy

The Fish Hall

The central nave is dedicated to fishmongers. Arrive early (before 11am) for the best selection. Don't miss:

• Fresh prawns from the Bay of Cádiz
• Atún de almadraba during spring season
• Ready-to-eat mojama and other cured seafood
• Huevas (fish roe) - pressed and cured

Cheesemongers

Look for Payoyo cheese from Villaluenga del Rosario in the Sierra de Grazalema. This award-winning goat and sheep cheese is among Spain's finest. Available in curado (aged) and semicurado varieties.

Butchers and Charcutería

The meat pavilion offers:

• Iberian pork from the Sierra de Cádiz
• Retinto beef - local breed from Cádiz province
• Cured meats including jamón and lomo

Produce Stalls

Fresh from Cádiz province:

• Tomatoes from Conil
• Oranges from the Sierra
• Chicharros (local greens)
• Fresh herbs and lettuces

Rincón Gastronómico (Gastronomic Corner)

The market transforms at midday when the Rincón Gastronómico comes alive. This is where locals eat - standing at counters, plates piled with fried fish, glasses of cold sherry in hand.

What to Eat

Dish	Description
Tortillitas de camarones	Crispy shrimp fritters - Cádiz's signature tapa
Cazón en adobo	Marinated, fried dogfish
Pescaíto frito	Mixed fried fish
Gambas al ajillo	Garlic prawns
Croquetas	Creamy croquettes, often ham or fish
Volovanes	Vol-au-vents with seafood filling

Evening Hours

Unlike the main market, the Rincón Gastronómico reopens for dinner:

Day	Evening Hours
Tuesday - Thursday	20:00 - 00:00
Friday - Saturday	20:00 - 01:00

The evening atmosphere is entirely different - more social, more festive. Locals gather after work for tapas and sherry beneath the columns.

Prices

Expect to pay around €4-6 for a tapa and drink. A plate of paella with sangria costs approximately €4. Wine and half-litre beers are €2.50. This is authentic, affordable eating.

Visiting Tips

Best times to visit:

• Morning (9:00-11:00): Fresh seafood shopping, quieter atmosphere
• Lunchtime (12:00-14:00): Rincón Gastronómico at its liveliest
• Evening (20:00-22:00): Completely different vibe, tapas and socialising

Saturday is the busiest and most atmospheric day - many locals combine market shopping with lunch at the food stalls.

Getting There

The market occupies Plaza Libertad in the heart of Cádiz's old town:

• On foot: 5-minute walk from the Cathedral or Plaza de San Juan de Dios
• By bus: Lines 1, 2, 7 stop nearby
• Parking: Underground car park at Plaza de San Juan de Dios (10 min walk)
• By train: Cádiz train station is 15 minutes' walk

Explore more options in our complete Cádiz markets guide.

Frequently Asked Questions

What are the opening hours of Mercado Central Cádiz?

The main market is open Monday to Saturday from 9am to 3pm. Closed Sundays. The Rincón Gastronómico reopens for dinner: Tuesday-Thursday 8pm-midnight, Friday-Saturday 8pm-1am.

Is Mercado Central Cádiz the oldest market in Spain?

Yes, it's Spain's oldest covered market, opening in 1838. The neoclassical building designed by Torcuato Benjumeda has served Cádiz continuously for over 186 years.

What is mojama?

Mojama is salt-cured bluefin tuna loin, often called 'the ham of the sea.' It's a Cádiz specialty, sliced paper-thin and served drizzled with olive oil. Available at several stalls in the market.

Can I eat at Mercado Central Cádiz?

Yes, the Rincón Gastronómico (Gastronomic Corner) serves tapas, fried fish, and local dishes. You can also buy fresh seafood from the stalls and have it cooked for you at the restaurants upstairs.

What should I eat at Mercado Central Cádiz?

Must-try dishes include tortillitas de camarones (shrimp fritters), cazón en adobo (marinated fried dogfish), pescaíto frito (mixed fried fish), and local sherry. Prices are very affordable - around €4-6 for a tapa and drink.

What is the best time to visit Mercado Central Cádiz?

For shopping, arrive 9-11am for the freshest seafood. For eating, the lunchtime rush (12-2pm) has the best atmosphere. Saturday is the liveliest day. The evening session (8pm onwards) is excellent for tapas.

What is Payoyo cheese?

Payoyo is an award-winning goat and sheep cheese from Villaluenga del Rosario in the Sierra de Grazalema. It's one of Spain's finest cheeses and widely available at the market's cheese stalls.

Is there parking near Mercado Central Cádiz?

The nearest underground car park is at Plaza de San Juan de Dios, about a 10-minute walk. The old town is largely pedestrianised, so you'll need to park on the outskirts and walk in.

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